Monthly Archives: April 2016

varanasi. and veggie burgers.

We are squashed in an auto-rickshaw, struggling to breathe and trying to ignore the headaches that are pounding insistently inside our skulls. The traffic is at a complete standstill, the fumes from every kind of vehicle and the dry dust of the street poison the air and the beeping is incessant and pointless. It’s hot. It takes us nearly an hour to travel the eight kilometres to the river, then we get out and walk. The auto driver resignedly heads back into the stifling crush. The traffic here is as renowned as the reason it exists.

zen and the art of indian sleeper class.

Sleeper class. Two words that can fill you with nervous unease if you are about to take your first train trip in India and you can’t afford the icy luxury and scratchy blankets of the air-conditioned carriages- or you just don’t want them. But sleeper class is actually better than sliced bread. It isn’t what you have seen in so many movies- the carriages aren’t packed to exploding, there are no people hanging out the doors, you won’t have to cram yourself into a space meant for a child’s backpack. That’s in general class. You don’t want to travel in general class. Although it may be the only place you will ever see a grown man haul his tiny ancient mother onto the luggage racks above the seats, where she settles in for the journey.